This is Africa.

Bonsoir!

I think I have a love hate relationship with Africa. Some things are great as my weekend will later illustrate however something’s are starting to get IRRITATING! This was more visible than ever on my late evening trip to buy water from the corner shop. On my way out I was greeted with lots of hugs and hi-5’s from the local children- I definitely love this part as they are always so enthusiastic giggling and playing in the street. I don’t however, like sticky fingers in my hair and on my clothes. I will forgive them for that though as they are cute. 

On the way to the shop (bearing in mind it is 5 minutes’ walk) I was approached by 4 taxis. FOUR. It is starting to irritate me that if a taxi sees a Westerner they assume that you have no legs and definitely cannot walk anywhere alone. I was also followed by a man on a moped looking for a "femme blanche".  Then the man in the shop, I went to get water from assumed that as a British girl, I definitely didn’t speak French so he had to write everything out on paper and on a calculator urgh! To top it all off, the water I bought had been opened and refilled with tap water. Crafty! So I had to walk all the way back and buy some more! As well, everything seems to take so long at the moment be it food, work, transport. Although it is frustrating, I’m slowly getting used to waiting for things an might even be relaxing and slowly adjusting to Mali time. (Just before going home- bad timing.)

Despite these moans, I had a lovely weekend in the countryside. The environment was just as I had imagined and was so impressive and more mountainous than I had imagined. Very dusty (as my orange clothes demonstrate) yet at the same time unexpectedly green.  We went to Siby, a small town about an hour from Bamako. The fun started at the bus station in Bamako as we got pushed from bus to bus and told they were full, before finding a bus that would take us. It was disconcerting that in order to set off it needed a big push , and there were too many people in it so it dragged all the way there. On a Saturday, Siby comes alive because of its fruit market, it was still such a contrast to the grande marché of Bamako and it seemed to be the attraction of the town because in the evening the main street was deserted. The view however remains amazing, I would love to wake up to that over the construction site I have outside my window!

 

This is the local bus. I love the little driver cab, even though after I took this about 4 people sat in it. I quite like African buses. They are an experience every time!

  The main things to see at Siby are the outdoor attractions and we hired a 4x4 with driver to take us the 17km to a waterfall to make the most of them. Some of the group hired bikes but I didn’t think I would make 17k uphill in 38 degrees. The car was an experience though as I got to sit in the back of the truck, very good for views and sun tanning but I am now battered and bruised as the terrain was so bumpy. On the plus side I have decided sitting in the back in the open air is good for combating travel sickness ha! The views were beautiful from the back of the truck. Going through the maize and cotton fields was amazing although I was almost expecting some wildlife to pop out, it felt like a safari. It seems there is very little in the way of wildlife here with the exception of lizards and mosquitos! Disappointing!

The waterfall was so calm and freezing to swim in (although standing directly under the water flow was like having my first hot shower since I have been here.) It was nice to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and spend some time swimming and having fun after a stressful work week .

In the evening I took the sotrama back to Bamako. This was an experience as we had to wait an hour for sacks of grains and market purchases to be loaded onto the roof. We then had to wait lots more time whilst these purchases were consequently unloaded and reorganised as people got off and on en route. Whilst waiting in the sotrama, Claire and I befriended a local lady. She spoke only Bambara and communicating was like playing charades, she just kept stroking our hands and giggling as well as trying to teach us vocab. One thing, I have noticed is that outside of the capital so few people speak French. Considering this is the official language it is quite surprising and shows a definite divide amongst Malians.  The other observation we made from the sotrama was a gay couple holding hands in the street. This wouldn’t normally be something I notice but here it was surprising (and positive) that they were so accepted within their community. The sotrama proved a good place to sit for making such observations. 

Sunday was rest day and filled with boring Masters applications- scary to be thinking of that already! On the plus side, I went up to Hippodrome (a part of town where lots of expats live) for food and for wifi. It worries me a bit how much I am attracted to what I know, but sometimes it was nice. I hope to head back to Siby another day to do some hiking as it was really nice to get out the dusty city for a while.

Tomorrow is the official launch of the rural training centre we have been working at. Government ministers are attending and it will be interesting to get a proper idea of the scale of the project. I am looking forward to it.

Starting to miss you all at home now, and crave lots of food.

Million dollar question currently being; What will my first meal home be?

A bientot

Alice X