Sunday, 11 December 2011

A weekend of adventures and reflections.

YO!
This weekend has been my last in Bamako. Its strange to think that my experience has gone so fast and whilst at times it has been one of the hardest things I have done. I have had an amazing time, discovered lots both about myself and Mali, got considerably better at French and had some good (and sad) times along the way. I think the ICS scheme whilst needing some changes has offered me a brilliant opportunity to learn new things and I think everyone should get the chance to do it!

In order to celebrate the last weekend we have embraced our adventurous side here in Bamako and I have loved it. Yesterday we decided to go find the hill we had fictionally declared "Simbas Peak" unfortunately I was  under the illusion this name was real so googled it in preparation to be told it didnt exist! We got into a taxi and told him to take us to the bottom of a hill in Taliko. Taliko has a lot of hills but the taxi took us to one. It was fun , but the heat (and 3 months of bad food) made it tricky. On the way we saw women working the land and saw the village below. The view was lovely and it was good to be out and about.  The route down was a bit sketchy and i did some of it sitting down. It was nonetheless lovely to have some renewed energy from a bit of exercise and a snapshot into rural life. The children were so friendly and kept mobbing us in the street whilst everybody we saw said inice (hello) or i ni sogoma (good morning). I think that's one thing i will find sad about being home. Here everyone is so friendly and greets you whoever you are. Whilst I wont miss the constant shout of "Tubabu" white person which has started to get irritating, nor the taxis which follow you along the road beeping their horn cos they think as a Westerner you don't have legs, I will miss the friendliness and totally non judgmental attitude of people.

Sunday saw an adventure on the Niger. We found a hotel which provided canoe trips on the Niger. This was a brilliant way to spend the last Sunday . We picked up the canoes and a guide and after a bumpy trip to the start point we set off. The Niger is fairly fast, and whilst I had hoped the current would be fast it was bloody hard work fighting with both the current and the wind. The views were beautiful, and I really like the culture that comes with living alongside the river. Women washing clothes, kids swimming ad me fishing. It was so calm in comparison to central Bamako and we canoed past villages and through lots of beautiful rock formations (even if this was a bit like slalom and resulted in hitting the rocks a lot- ouch). I even saw a heron and lots of river birds. This wouldn't normally catch my eye but Bamako's wildlife extends to rats and salamanders so was nice to see.  We were told there were lots of rapids and unfortunately there was just one- this was nevertheless fun! I did however get very damp and spent the rest of the day drying off, as well as swallowing and splashing myself with water. Here's hoping it was a clean-ish bit of river.... I am now definitely aching but it was a brilliant day in the sunshine (with the exception of my awful tan lines...)

For our last week we have lots of work planned. We have to hand over al the work we have done. In hindsight whilst we have made a significant start on the artisan catalogue  and have helped market the artist network we have worked with I am sad not to have done more.   I wasn't expecting miracles but i was hoping for some improvement. I hope AJA run with what we have done and it doesn't go to waste. The rest of the week will be filled with admin and of course some fun! Watch this space. Soon you will be seeing this slightly more tanned Tubabu back in the UK!!

Things I will miss about Africa:

  • The sunshine
  • Friendly people
  • Nice biscuits
  • Finding everything novel
  • The music
  • Beautiful colors
  • Smells, sights and sounds
  • Yassa sauce (an onion based sauce for rice)
  • Mango juice
  • The excitement of little kids seeing a tubabu
  • People's creativity
  • Being resourceful
  • Working everyday with inspiring people and beautiful thing.
  • The anything goes attitude
  • Being relaxed
  • People not being judgemental
So many more for another day...

Things I will not miss about Mali...
  • Mali time...definite test of patience
  • chips,chips and more chips and in fact anything fried
  • sleeping in my princess mosquito net
  • MOSQUITO'S
  • the salamander invasion in my room
  • Taxis stopping all the time
  • Not having the independence I am used to when out and about.
  • Worrying that everything i eat will make me ill.
Sorry for this somewhat lackluster blog. I'm tired and my arms are so aching from the canoe I need a rest!
A plus
X

Tuesday, 6 December 2011

The president, the police station and some attempted Christmas cheer.

I ni su, 

This weekend has been an interesting one filled with events and volunteering to celebrate international volunteer’s day 2011 and the 10th anniversary of this event.  On Friday, I was invited to an event at the market in Djocoroni to give out plastic bags. There are so many small black plastic bags littering Mali so this was a brilliant initiative. Unfortunately it was really badly organised and as I was given some bags I was mobbed by women and their children. The women wanted the bags, the kids wanted my money, presents, to touch my hair and steal my shoes. It was really quite stressful and I ended up somewhat bruised ha-ha. I enjoyed it nonetheless however, and the event brought together volunteers from Mali, UK and Japan to name a few. It was positive to see an event with such a good turnout, and one appreciated by the local community. As a plastic bag hater I thought it was a really great initiative and it’s a shame it cannot be rolled out further.
Friday evening I went to Exodus, a local music place to watch a band called Bamakool jazz. They were an amazing jazz band mixing African and European beats and songs. Unfortunately they came on stage at midnight and I had to get up at 4.45 on Saturday for work. Needless to say I was somewhat bleary eyed  in the morning. 

Saturday, I was a bit double booked as I was required to work at the Foire Santa craft fair (a Christmas market organised by Bamako’s German community) and the jour de fete organised by the Amaldem group. (the other group working for IS). I started at the Foire Santa hence the silly early start. We had to meet our boss at the gallery at 6, so we walked the half an hour in the dark (unfortunately without Sophie who had been struck by the dreaded malaria- better now though) and got to work. We waited and waited and waited and began to realize that Mali time is especially irritating when you get up early for something. Our acting boss turned up at 7 with no apology and then proceeded to sleep in a chair, the driver arrived at 8 so the early morning was wasted and our place at the Christmas market slightly compromised. Packing the car was like playing jenga as we had too much stuff and no space, in the end we had to tie it all down. When we got to the Palais de la culture I was excited to find the fair being held in the garden, it definitely didn’t feel festive but it was fun nonetheless. Unfortunately our stressful morning continued as it transpired our boss didn’t actually have a place at the fair. In the end we shared the stall with someone she knew and sneaked our way in (T.I.A). We set up our stand as you can see, but we were disappointed with the lack of effort the gallery had made and due to other commitments hadn’t helped with preparation. We had no change and not enough table cloths etc. We made the best of a bad job however. The fair featured jazz music from an American jazz band, a bbq, German Christmas cakes and lots of bright products. It couldn’t have been any further than being Christmassy especially as the weather was hotter than it had been in ages. It was nice to buy Christmas presents and chat to the customers. I hope the gallery did well as we sold quite a lot of things.


After a quick lunch we went to our second function of the day. The other IS group who have been working at a school for children with physical and mental disability had organised a disability awareness day. This saw a brilliant turnout and we arrived just in time to watch a brilliant collection of dance performances. There was also a dance with marionette puppets which was brilliant. Later in the afternoon, I helped out with the tombola. This involved allowing children to pick a pencil to see if they had won. It was so popular that we were mobbed with children who wanted to play. They were pushing and shoving however there excitement to receive small trinkets was priceless. Big congratulations to the Amaldem team for a brilliant and successful event.

Sunday saw a well needed rest day in the park. I love the national park, whilst I feel slightly guilty being there as it’s so tranquil and slightly exclusive I like the calm and the green that comes with it. It reminds me a lot of Parc  d’orangerie in Strasbourg. I find it weird that there is a charge and even weirder the disparity between the local charge of 300 and the visitor charge of 1500. It’s a really nice park however with lots of shady spots. It definitely provides a sometimes welcome sanctuary from the hustle of bustle of the streets. Nonetheless, as time on this trip draws to a close I think I will miss the business, the chaos, the beeping of car horns and the colours. It’s weird to be thinking of going home so soon. I’m also worried about the weather, as the temperature has dropped to as low as 15 in the mornings and I have woken up shivering and dreading the prospect of a cold shower. In the day time it warms up to 30, so I am really worried about the weather when I get home. Knitwear at the ready!

Monday saw yet another early start and after having my phone nicked during the weekend waking up at 6.30 involved waking up every hour. As it was international volunteers day we were invited to an event at the International Conference centre. Sophie and I went early on behalf of AJA to set up the stand. We were representing our work with Fere Kene and AJA and used lots of pictures as well as a printed version of the artisan catalogue. On a work side note, although we have stalled a little bit recently as we are waiting for clearance from the director work has gone better than imagined and I am starting to feel I have achieved something which is nice. The volunteer event involved lots of organisations from France, Uk, USA and Japan to name a few as well as the launch of a Malian volunteer program. It was nice to see so many people come together for the cause. The day began with speeches. The event was attended by lots of Malian politicians including the president, the prime minister, ministers and other diplomats. It was exciting that they were investing their time and money into youth volunteering. The ceremony was long and involved lots of speeches but there was also a performance from an (apparently) famous Malian rapper. He was lip-syncing to his song, but not even subtly. The song was played whilst he danced around; the atmosphere was brilliant as all the young Malians sang along. Another observation I made during this ceremony was that the Malian national anthem is in French. I guess this is almost to be expected in Mali, however having noticed so many people speaking only Bambara this was surprising to me.

During the ceremony, I was asked to go downstairs to the stand. Little did I know I was about to be joined by the president. I shook his hand and said good morning (extent of the conversation ha!) but it was nice that the work of volunteers was being noticed by the president. My five minutes of fame.  All in all it was nice to represent AJA and IS through leafleting and I got to try out some more French. I think my French is finally improving which is morale boosting. If its not the French, then it is definitely my confidence as I have been using French more and more to get in and out of situations.

My weekend involved lots of Malian firsts and today was no exception as I paid a visit to the local police station. Whilst I would like to say this was for being lairy, joy riding mopeds and getting in fights this is NOT true. I had my phone stolen and had to declare it. I found it so interesting that the police station which was in a small shack was so loosely organised. In true Mali time I have to go back tomorrow………
Although my week has been Bamako based it has been nonetheless exciting, I have enjoyed attending work functions pas part of IS as well s exploring the city. I hope to blog a few more times before I leave. I still can’t believe there months has whizzed by so fast!

Congratulations troopers, if you made it t the end of this ramble.
A plus xx

ps Christmas has descended upon the Bamako house thanks to our resident Christmas angel (AKA Soph) who has been spreading Christmas cheer by singing carols and decorating the office. Its really quite liberating to be away from all the materialism that accompanies Christmas by being here.  At the same time, its weird thinking at all about Christmas when it is 35 degrees outside. I am none the less looking forward to having myself a "merry little christmas". (Thanks Soph that's been in my head all day!!!)