Kidnappings, illness and more exciting things!

Hello! Sorry It has been so long since my last pot, I have just been bumbling along with a mix of  work (and lots of it) and a few outings but didn’t feel like I had done anything bloggable. Nonetheless I thought I would share what I have been up to recently.

Work goes up and down, I am in the process of writing a marketing catalogue in English and French displaying the work of the 40 artisans we are working on. Unfortunately the organisation seem to have other preoccupations and to do my job I need use of the car. Every time I book it, it gets to the day and it is being used by someone else which is frustrating as I have no other work at all and feel slightly rejected by the organisation. In their eyes anyone is more important than us so gets first pick. So last week Sophie and I took matters into our own hands and took taxis all over Bamako to carry out the interviews and get the images we needed. This proved to be quite an adventure (and very bumpy) It was a really interesting trip, whilst some artisans are doing well we met one who couldn’t afford to eat and worked in an outside workshop (shack) that he shares with a family of rats. We met another guy who was so friendly and optimistic despite his hardship. He worked in an amazing part of town overlooking the mango trees and river. He said that he works in amongst the trees for inspiration. His house was at the foot of a big hill and it was idyllic. He ran djembe classes and made drums. It was just a shame that his business was suffering.  It seems that here the problems in northern Mali really impact tourism and thus trade. It is really interesting hearing people’s real stories and it’s definitely a perk of the job getting to talk about and look at clothes, bags and jewellery all day!

When work has not been happening we have been filling out time in other ways.  Last week saw the start of my Christmas shopping. It Is particularly strange doing your shopping in the 35 degree heat and even weirder writing your Christmas cards next to the swimming pool. Last weekend we went to the Faybak, which is like a market/trade show. It was a weird environment as there were artisans selling local products alongside large Malian brands selling food and drink products. It was the first sign of advertising and big industry that I had really seen. On the plus side I got to buy lots of nice things and the people selling them were friendly and had lots to talk about. I also got to go to the marché de N’golonina which is a collection of winding streets, reminiscent of a Moroccan Souk. We had visited this market a few times with work and decided to go back to do Christmas shopping. Jewellry cascades off walls and there are masks and sculptures everywhere. I got so many nice things- a lot of them for myself. I also had to test my bargaining skills and realised that I think I am a bit nice. I find it hard to really haggle for things if I think they are nice and I end up feeling sorry for the artisan. Needless to say my shopping was quite expensive. Still, a lot cheaper than anywhere else and there was no hassle unlike at the Grand Marché which has to be a definite plus. I did however see lots of rats running around and got a basket filled with dust dropped on my head. All in a day’s shopping.

Because time is starting to tick away here we have adopted the approach of doing everything. Last week saw a night out in Byblos which is a nightclub that reminded me of Las Vegas- not that I have ever been. It’s a crazy place with a big fountain in the middle- you almost expect mermaids to come dancing out of it or something.  On the negative side it is full of VERY rich Western men picking up Malian women in skirts so short t they would rival any UK nightspot. This Is the sad reality of going out in Mali. In Byblos there is also a bowling alley which we decided to try last week when we were bored. Me, Claire, sophie and Sumer(a) decided we are not so good at bowling. It was hilarious however which added to the fun and somehow I won- with possibly the lowest score ever. It was fun however to do something a bit different with our evening.  Last week, I also had my first Djembe (drumming lesson) . It’s something I have really wanted to do so I decided to push the boat out and have one.  At first I found it really difficult, because I have always been quite musical, but I couldn’t get the rhythms or the techniques which was difficult. As time went on however, I found it easier and I really enjoyed it- now I want to add a Djembe to my instrument collection. The teacher was a really talented musician and sang me some songs whilst playing this interesting instrument that was like a hollow wooden shell called a Calabasse. The lesson was on the roof during sunset which was really nice apart from the millions of mosquitos!

Last week after going out and having salad and ice cream (two contraband foods- I am an idiot) I started to feel quite unwell. I had really bad stomach ache, felt so sick and couldn’t stop sleeping. On Friday I had my first encounter with the Clinique Pasteur. This is billed to be the best clinic in town and is quite nice, although their medical care is a bit shady. Its very expensive however and whilst waiting for the Doctor it was interesting to people watch, it was insightful to see the kind of people who could afford to be treated there. I was given a blood test thing in my finger which hurt- although they analysed the results in 20 minutes which was a record. The doctor was a bit crazy, prodded me a bit, concluded it was a stomach parasite and then gave me some pills. It was a bit worrying he didn’t ask for any medical history or anything though. On the plus side, I successfully completed my French doctor experience and understood everything which was one up from when I was in France and had many a confused trip to the Doctor.

This weekend we had planned a trip away to Sikasso, however it slightly fell apart due to illness and money worries.  Following the news on Thursday that two French men had been killed in Hombari which is the first kidnapping South of the Niger and then another kidnapping of four Westerner’s (one of whom was killed) in Timbuktu on Friday we were also nervous to leave the capital. Some members of the group were going to go anyway but were told no from International Service. We have been instructed to not go out alone and to avoid quiet areas. DON’T WORRY though, because in the capital I think we are pretty safe as the second kidnapping was in the red zone in an area synonymous with kidnapping and danger. I think it is still scary though and it has been suggested there might be a spate of kidnappings in that area so Timbuktu has been evacuated. I think what is scary is the instability and relations between AQUIM (Al-Quida in the Islamic Maghreb) and the government and the fact that they want liberation from the south of Mali. After a comment at a recent meeting about all Muslims being regarded the same in Mali, the AQUIM went on a spate of Western kidnappings. It’s definitely a scary way to make a point, and it makes you wonder what goes through people’s heads.

Anyway, on a more jovial note because we decided to stay in Bamako for security reasons we decided to spend the weekend being tourists in our own town. On Saturday morning we went to the Musée Nationale which is in the Parc National de Mali. The museum had exhibits on Malian textiles, history and rituals. These were all interesting and we learnt that Malian history had never really been documented so much of what we saw had been found within the last fifty years by archaeologists. The museum was also holding the biennial Rencontres Photographiques de Bamako which is a photo exhibition bringing together photographers from all over Mali. This year the theme was climate change and there were some really interesting, though provoking and honest images. Some focussed on Western impact on local values which were interesting, others on environmental issues. I really enjoyed the exhibition but there were so many pictures it was difficult to concentrate. Some of the pictures were also blown up on canvasses in the park which was interesting.  In the afternoon Sophie and I were very touristy walking around Hippodrome, which is the area lots of the expats hang out in. We also went to the actual hippodrome and watched the horses in training!

On Sunday we went to the Cathedral. It is interesting that Bamako has a cathedral and it Is a really striking building. Inside however, less so. I was expecting ornate architecture and it was simple- although this simplicity was striking and there were stripy stain glass windows!.  We arrived during mass so we observed it from the door. The catholic community was large and friendly and everyone was in their Sunday best. It was interesting to observe a different religious group to the dominant Islam and the mass was interesting. Although the announcements of weddings at the end took about half an hour! After the cathedral we continued our touristy day with a trip to Café Breton, my favourite place. It is a hotel/café owned by a French couple and it has an amazing swimming pool and even better coffee. An indulgent afternoon was spent there writing Christmas cards and swimming (odd combination). In the evening we went up to Point G for Dan’s birthday to watch the sunset. There, we built a fire and listened to music whilst looking out over a brightly lit Bamako. It still surprises me however, how few lights there are in the city compared to a similar view over London or Paris and suggest a lot about its development.

There you go, a little bit about what I have been up to in the past few weeks. We are on the first of our last three weeks and I think I’m going to compile a list of all the things I want to do in Bamako. I still feel in a bit of a weird state here- stuck somewhere between tourist and expat.

Here are a few observations on Mali life this week:

·         It is very normal to share your taxi with a number of strangers- go on a detour and still pay the same price.

·         The temperature has dropped- it’s now often mid 20’s in the morning and I have been wearing my hoody and getting increasingly scared of the cold shower. This bodes particularly well for my arrival in the UK.

·         I still find it novel to see goats riding on the top of buses

·         It hasn’t rained in two months.

·         I have been in at least 5 near road accidents this week, at least one per taxi. I’m no longer scared by this!

·         I think I am addicted to Biscuits- nothing new there then!

·         I still make small children cry.

Congratulations if you made it to the end of my Monday morning ramble. I shall try to blog more diligently next time!

Much Love x 

This is Africa.

Bonsoir!

I think I have a love hate relationship with Africa. Some things are great as my weekend will later illustrate however something’s are starting to get IRRITATING! This was more visible than ever on my late evening trip to buy water from the corner shop. On my way out I was greeted with lots of hugs and hi-5’s from the local children- I definitely love this part as they are always so enthusiastic giggling and playing in the street. I don’t however, like sticky fingers in my hair and on my clothes. I will forgive them for that though as they are cute. 

On the way to the shop (bearing in mind it is 5 minutes’ walk) I was approached by 4 taxis. FOUR. It is starting to irritate me that if a taxi sees a Westerner they assume that you have no legs and definitely cannot walk anywhere alone. I was also followed by a man on a moped looking for a "femme blanche".  Then the man in the shop, I went to get water from assumed that as a British girl, I definitely didn’t speak French so he had to write everything out on paper and on a calculator urgh! To top it all off, the water I bought had been opened and refilled with tap water. Crafty! So I had to walk all the way back and buy some more! As well, everything seems to take so long at the moment be it food, work, transport. Although it is frustrating, I’m slowly getting used to waiting for things an might even be relaxing and slowly adjusting to Mali time. (Just before going home- bad timing.)

Despite these moans, I had a lovely weekend in the countryside. The environment was just as I had imagined and was so impressive and more mountainous than I had imagined. Very dusty (as my orange clothes demonstrate) yet at the same time unexpectedly green.  We went to Siby, a small town about an hour from Bamako. The fun started at the bus station in Bamako as we got pushed from bus to bus and told they were full, before finding a bus that would take us. It was disconcerting that in order to set off it needed a big push , and there were too many people in it so it dragged all the way there. On a Saturday, Siby comes alive because of its fruit market, it was still such a contrast to the grande marché of Bamako and it seemed to be the attraction of the town because in the evening the main street was deserted. The view however remains amazing, I would love to wake up to that over the construction site I have outside my window!

 

This is the local bus. I love the little driver cab, even though after I took this about 4 people sat in it. I quite like African buses. They are an experience every time!

  The main things to see at Siby are the outdoor attractions and we hired a 4x4 with driver to take us the 17km to a waterfall to make the most of them. Some of the group hired bikes but I didn’t think I would make 17k uphill in 38 degrees. The car was an experience though as I got to sit in the back of the truck, very good for views and sun tanning but I am now battered and bruised as the terrain was so bumpy. On the plus side I have decided sitting in the back in the open air is good for combating travel sickness ha! The views were beautiful from the back of the truck. Going through the maize and cotton fields was amazing although I was almost expecting some wildlife to pop out, it felt like a safari. It seems there is very little in the way of wildlife here with the exception of lizards and mosquitos! Disappointing!

The waterfall was so calm and freezing to swim in (although standing directly under the water flow was like having my first hot shower since I have been here.) It was nice to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and spend some time swimming and having fun after a stressful work week .

In the evening I took the sotrama back to Bamako. This was an experience as we had to wait an hour for sacks of grains and market purchases to be loaded onto the roof. We then had to wait lots more time whilst these purchases were consequently unloaded and reorganised as people got off and on en route. Whilst waiting in the sotrama, Claire and I befriended a local lady. She spoke only Bambara and communicating was like playing charades, she just kept stroking our hands and giggling as well as trying to teach us vocab. One thing, I have noticed is that outside of the capital so few people speak French. Considering this is the official language it is quite surprising and shows a definite divide amongst Malians.  The other observation we made from the sotrama was a gay couple holding hands in the street. This wouldn’t normally be something I notice but here it was surprising (and positive) that they were so accepted within their community. The sotrama proved a good place to sit for making such observations. 

Sunday was rest day and filled with boring Masters applications- scary to be thinking of that already! On the plus side, I went up to Hippodrome (a part of town where lots of expats live) for food and for wifi. It worries me a bit how much I am attracted to what I know, but sometimes it was nice. I hope to head back to Siby another day to do some hiking as it was really nice to get out the dusty city for a while.

Tomorrow is the official launch of the rural training centre we have been working at. Government ministers are attending and it will be interesting to get a proper idea of the scale of the project. I am looking forward to it.

Starting to miss you all at home now, and crave lots of food.

Million dollar question currently being; What will my first meal home be?

A bientot

Alice X

Celebrations galore.

Yesterday (Sunday) was Eid or Tabaski as they call it here. As a result things at work began to wind down halfway through last week so people could prepare. Our preparations were minimal however, we did fit in multiple trips to the tailor to get outfits made and altered. It still amazes me how easy it is to get clothes made here and how much effort goes into them. I had a second one made but it doesn’t fit so well which is a shame! Due to preparations last week work was slow and we got very little done, things have stalled a bit and we need a few meetings next week to get things back on track. We went to Baguineda last week to see the rural project but Mali time really showed itself when we ordered the car for 8 for it to arrive at 10. After a two hour journey to the site we arrived at 12 having missed the lessons we wanted to observe. My patience is being VERY tested by Malian time!! Instead our boss took us on a river boat across the Niger to a small fishing village. It wasn't at all a wasted journey as it was so beautiful on the river. Apparently there used to be hippos there but they had left- such a shame! It turned out the purpose of the trip was to collect some women who wanted to go to the market and also a donkey. YES you heard right, a donkey. It was quite surreal but also traumatising watching him get knocked over and tied into the boat. He kicked all the way but happily trotted off at the other side! I love their novel ways of transporting things, and this has also been visible this week with goats and sheep- hundreds of them riding on top of busses and being carried on motorbikes in preparation for the Tabaski sacrifice. Because the animals are sacrificed for Tabaski they have been everywhere this week and it was even hard to sleep as they bleat so loud! Bamako smelled like sheep and sounded like it too!

Friday saw Shawana’s Malian birthday (and also the worst stomach cramps I have ever had!) and to celebrate it (the birthday that is!) we went for shisha (possibly the first and last time I will do that one..after inhaling half of Bamako's dust which seemed to get trapped inside!) and pizza at the Algerian patisserie around the corner.  This continued our theme of mega eating this week, after eating curry and ice cream the night before. Definitely nice to have a change from rice and sauce or bread and pretend cheese! After dinner we had a girly night which was much fun and involved face masks, henna, chocolate cake and Usher! Sam is really amazing at doing Mehndi , so my hands got quite the transformation. It was nice to have a night in before the business of the weekend!

On Saturday morning we were invited to EDA which is a school for deaf children. The group before had organised dance lessons for the children and they had been working with a choreographer on a performance for dance festival Danse Bamako Danse. Their performances mixed contemporary and modern and were amazing. The children danced to the vibrations of the drum and were amazingly in time. It was positive to see the work of other organisations in Bamako and the enthusiasm of the children who after their performance proceeded to dance out of the door!

 

On Saturday evening we were invited to a Bonfire Night party at Rob’s house (he is an ethnomusicologist from the UK.) It was so nice to be invited into someone’s home but made me miss mine a lot. We watched  and they were beautiful especially in a sky that you can see the stars in. The local kids however did not feel so enthused and threw corn over the wall! Even though I am here to learn about the local culture sometimes it is nice to have a little bit of familiarity (and a jacket potato!) I also saw some more of the expat community last week at a private view for a photography exhibition, it was so full of French people and felt like another world but was quite a nice one to be in, although one of canapés and free wine made me feel strangely greedy in comparison to what I see everyday. Nonetheless  it reminded me of home and was nice to see some art. This week my sister’s art exhibition opened in York and I was sad not to be able to attend. It was however nice to be involved in something arty in Bamako, even if it was little comparison. Whilst I really like the local culture and the friendliness of the people I am finding myself more and more drawn towards familiarity. 

Sunday very quickly took me out of my comfort zone and I loved it! As it was the first day of Tabaski we were invited to Dolo's family home. He works  at International Service and invited us to celebrate the festivities with a feast. The day started very early and we got up and dressed into our new outfits, it is tradition to buy new clothes for Tabaski and we chose traditional ones which is nice. 

When we were ready we set to the difficult task of finding a taxi- like finding one on News years eve. It is traditional to sacrifice animals for Tabaski and waiting for the taxi we saw and heard a lot of this. I surprisingly didnt mind and found it quite interesting although there was lots of blood on the street which was not nice, nor was the bleating that filled the city. The taxi ride was nice as the city was so quiet and we got to see families in their "sunday best" on the way back from mosque. Some mosques were so full hundreds of people prayed in the courtyard. We were greeted at Dolo's family and introduced to his extended family, he lives in a beautiful house set round a courtyard with lots of mango trees.Sitting underneath listening to Malian music (and Akon..) was idyllic! We arrived just as the sheep had been sacrificed by the head of the family and was hanging from the tree. (I wont put a picture in case you are squeamish!) He was then cut up and taken to the outdoor kitchen for preparation with the exception of the head and legs which are used for a stew that they have for breakfast. ( I am slightly grateful we were not there for breakfast) Some of the girls prepared the meat and then me , Soph and Lucy put it on sticks for brochettes. Then began the theme of the day..eating! We were given cake and biscuits firstly and shortly after meat and chips. Thinking this was the main meal we all tucked in but no this was just a starter as over the next few hours we were fed mutton brochettes and meat and fonio (its like couscous) and Watermelon. Dolo then brought out a big mattress and set it under the tree..quite ideal for slipping into a food coma!

We were then taken to greet lots of the neighbors, it was difficult without Bambara as we were greeted with lots of good wishes but struggled to reply. The family value of Tabaski really struck a chord with me as extended family was invited round and neighbors and friends greeted. It made me want a big family (although i like my little one too!) Little children dressed in beautiful clothes greeted the families and played in the streets whilst families huddled around the table together. Being given the opportunity to gain insight into both Muslim and Malian culture was interesting and a definite honor. It was so lovely to be invited into a family to celebrate with. Today I have donned my second dress to attend another Tabaski celebration at lunchtime! More on that one later!

Bonne Fete a tous!

A bientot!

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